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OPINION Continued from page 14 version - a pizza riff on pas- ta alla vodka — with a blush-cream sauce, fresh mozzarella, aged mozzarel- et pecorino and fresh ba- erat? Delicious pizza with a hint of acidity yet a smooth mouthfeel and ex- ‘And as much Tim Borys was, like all of us, Shut} in during the pan- demi During that time — what might be called the great epoch of mass sour- doughing and home baking — Borys researched and experimented with flours, hydration ratios and bulk proofing. New York-inspired piz- za resulted, a style Borys loves and which reflects his research and trial-and- error tests. “Having reduced hours at the restaurant during COVID certainly gave me time to play around with pizza at home," he says. "We also renovated the Lancaster kitchen to ac- commodate r catering. But we realized that there was some down time, so let's do pizza." Back of House adds f to the local pura fabric — myriad 2-41 “induatral® conveyer-belt pizzas, wood-fired Neapolitan, Chicago and Detroit styles —that we can tuck into. With a dose of discre- tion, Borys says there's "a lot of bad pizza around," and New York style is miss- "You don't see that here," he says. _ a differ- entiation for us and some- thing a little fun." If there's a New York in- spiration, Borys says it be Di Fara and sons 's of Bleeker. le there might be a resemblance, this is not Neapolitan-style wood- fired pizza: it's cooked for six minutes in a classic Blodgett deck oven at 650 F, (Gale Price Place BACK OF HOUSE PIZZA Address: 574 Lancaster St. W., Kitchener Website: https://backofhousepizza.com Phone: 519-616-2442 while Neapolitan pizza takes 90 seconds at temper- atures sometimes ap- proaching 1,000 F. Since Back of House opened a few weeks ago, Borys estimates that they've made over 400 piz- zas, each cut into those big New York slices. The pizza has a thin, well- bake d “unde lercar- riage" and a cornicione crust-edge with a bit of leo- parding. Borys dedicated time to finding the right to- matoes; their Mutz is hand- shredded. The dough — Tavi- stock's Oak Manor hard and wheat flours blended along with fresh baker's yeast, salt and olive oil — Catch a Great Deal! » Pop Province, popular Cities or by y Price. Whatever Sautocatch.. Andrew Coppolino photo New York pie out of the oven after six minutes. undergoes a 48- to 72-hour cold ferment. It's up to the dough to carry the pizza, literally and metaphorically: the thin crust isn't burdened with a half-dozen toppings including three different oily meats. Pick up a slice of this pie, give it a slight libretto fold and there's no "tip sag." It's a key feature Borys to have accomplished in development and execu- tion. "My philosophy is keep- ing it simple with only a few ingredients. It's first a balance of dough, tomatoes and cheese.” That edge crust, when For trusted leadership, re-elect KAREN REDMAN Chair * Waterloo Region It's a distinct privilege to serve as your Chair. | respect the trust you have placed in me. Your vote is important. | encourage you to participate in the election. | respectfully ask for your support. - Karen Redman Election Day is October 24th Connect with Karen: redman4region@gmail.com 519-577-8248 karen-redman.com authorized by the CFO for the Karen Redman cam cooked, becomes a nicely Fs tunnelled and airy "bread" 3. with just the right alveoli 8 holes — which makes for g an excellent chew. z Could the venture & grow? Possibly, Borys 3 3 But it's too early to talk 2 a about next steps," he adds. = "The ‘ins on pizza are 2 good and. ine demand is = 3 there. just say I 8 ome oe surprised if; 8 w out of 8 For now, ote sour ‘happy Wednesday to y Saturday, 4 to 9 p.m. Call them at 519- 616-2442 to let them know that you've arrived. Andrew Coppolino of Kitchener is author of "Farm to Table" and co- author of "Cooking with Shakespeare." He is the 2022 Joseph Hoare gastro- nomic writer-in-residence at the Stratford Chefs School. Follow him on Twitter at @andrewcoppo- lino. eo 'e[D]UOIYDOOLETEM