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w at er lo oc hr on ic le .c a W at er lo o C hr on ic le | T hu rs da y, M ay 27 ,2 02 1 | 18 Don't miss your chance to recognize Dad on June 17th Visit www.metrolandannouncements.com today to place your listing or call 1-800-263-6480 and speak to one of our live operators who can place it for you. Call centre open M-F until 5pm. For a limited time, you can tell Dad "thank you and I love you" in the pages of his community newspaper. On June 17th, we will be publishing a special Father's Day feature carrying your notes of affection. From as little as $24.99 (prices vary by newspaper) you can give your Dad the special and unique recognition he deserves. Happy Father's Day to the Best Father in the World!!! Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Rebecca and Lily Happy Father's Day to the Best Father in the World!!! Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Rebecca and Lily Happy Father's Day to the Best Father in the World!!! Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Rebecca and Lily Happy Father's Day to the Best Father in the World!!! Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Rebecca and Lily Happy Father's Day to the Best Father in the World!!! Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Emily and Janice Happy Father's Day to the Best Father in the World!!! Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Jack and Carolyn Happy Father's Day to the Best Father in the World!!! Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Jack and Carolyn Happy Father's Day to the Best Father in the World!!! Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Jack and Carolyn Happy Father's Day to the Best Father in the World!!! Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Jack and Carolyn Happy Father's Day to the Best Father in the World!!! Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Emily and Janice Happy Father's Day to the Best Father in the World!!! Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Emily and Janice Happy Father's Day to the Best Father in the World!!! Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Emily and Janice s Day to the Best'Happy Father orld!!!Father in the W Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Jack and Carolyn s Day to the Best'Happy Father orld!!!Father in the W Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Jack and Carolyn s Day to the Best'Happy Father orld!!!Father in the W Thank you for everything y ou do!!! Love, Jack and Carolyn Early Birdbookingsprize draw! Single-sided full colour customizable 24" x 24" lawn sign including delivery to anywhere in Ontario for $29.99 including shipping & handling plus applicable taxes. Order up to June 10th (7 business days prior to Father's Day) for delivery by Father's Day. You can also add a sign for your lawn, or your Father's front lawn! e-gift card from$500 Father's Day Contest Contest opens on May 20th, 2021 and closes at 9:00am on June 10th, 2021 Simple registration to win a Visitmetrolandannouncements.com for more info metrolanddirect.com/collections/metroland-communities Open to Ontario Residents. No purchase necessary. For contest details go to metrolandannouncements.com The Garland double- deck oven, standing 170 cen- timetres and weighing 570 kilograms, sits imposingly in Reeghan Peister's newly renovated basement kitch- en. The massive piece of equipment is the focus of Kitchener-based Tough as They Crumb, a new sub- scription bakery which opened for business the first week of April. Even before the Septem- ber renovations started, Peister had been consider- ing a pivot from his cooking and catering career. "I wanted to get out of the hospitality industry, but not completely," Peister said. "I wanted to continue do- ing what I've been doing most of my career, but with something more sustain- able when it comes to family life." While furloughed from a local hospitality and events company, Peister, a culi- nary management graduate of Conestoga College, says he "busted out" the multi- volume Modernist Bread, 2,600 pages of baking theory and practice by Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya. "I started baking every day. Friends then started asking for bread, and I start- ed delivering it." Word of mouth took its course and bread requests grew. With the COVID land- scape for cooks and restau- rants looking grim, Peister and partner Amy Esplen, who works for a local design agency, started the renova- tions and got the kitchen certified by public health. Tough as They Crumb, a sort of secret subscription "bread club" by sign-up on- ly, was born. "We were actually in- spired by Sugar Run speak- easy in Kitchener," said Peister. Subscription options for porch-drop delivery are a white sandwich loaf each week, a baker's choice loaf each week or one or the oth- er every other week. Aside from the subscrip- tion, the bread's shape is unique: these are "Pullman" loaves, named for the Pull- man pan they're baked in and for Pullman railway cars. "The tins fit nicely in the oven and were stored easily in the small spaces of the train cars," Peister said. "They're the perfect shape for sandwiches and cutting for canapés." The tins have lids that contain the bread creating its square shape. A Pullman loaf, with minimal crust and soft interior, is similar to pain de mie. "It's an enriched sand- wich loaf," he said. "Like bri- oche but with less butter." Peister's primary loaf is a French "lean," essentially a baguette dough without sugars, fats and additives. "It gets a poolish pre-fer- ment, which is like a sour- dough starter but with com- mercial yeast rather than wild. It adds flavour and depth," he said. The other subscription option is a baker's choice: that could be a focaccia, a full rye bread without wheat, or cinnamon-raisin. Pullman loaves don't have the big tunnels found in sour dough and other ar- tisan breads. "It shines as simple breakfast toast, for sandwiches or for French toast," Peister added. As I'm writing this, I'm eating a toasted slice of Peis- ter's Earl Grey tea bread: a slathering of butter and a few cranks of salt, and the subtle flavour pops. "The baker's choice is where I have a bit of extra fun," said Peister who, in his previous kitchen roles, has enjoyed dabbling with the science and molecular gas- tronomy aspect of culinary -- the playfulness of chef Ferran Adria, or Mhyr- vold's five-volume Modern- ist Cuisine. With the 570-kilo Gar- land baking Tuesday to Thursday, Peister is work- ing toward 50 subscriptions for each day but stresses quality and not quantity is part of his new pandemic business approach -- in- cluding quality of life. "It's a tight-knit commu- nity club; I hope people want to join," said Peister adding he doesn't want a big business. "We're creating demand that doesn't overwhelm my life and allows family time," he said. "Going back to the res- taurant industry full-time is out of the picture." For more information about Tough as They Crumb, visit toughasthey- crumb.club. Andrew Coppolino is a Kitchener-based food writer and broadcaster. Visit him at www.andrewcoppolino- .com. KITCHENER-BASED BAKERY REALLY DELIVERS While furloughed from a local hospitality and events company, Reeghan Peister, a culinary management graduate of Conestoga College, says he "busted out" the multi-volume Modernist Bread, 2,600 pages of baking theory and practice by Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya. Andrew Coppolino photo OPINION ANDREW COPPOLINO Column