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w at er lo oc hr on ic le .c a W at er lo o C hr on ic le | T hu rs da y, F eb ru ar y 4, 20 21 | 10 Dan McCowan's Red House Uptown, the small restaurant in an old home tucked in on William Street near the LRT tracks, has evolved over its life -- and as McCowan researches his Guyanese heritage. The menu and his cook- ing are solid but Red House has also created a growing online "market" of its foods, something they were doing successfully before it be- came a sign of the CO- VID-19 times. Those bistro dishes, however, remain the Red House forte: a lamb shank curry I had recently was the best lamb I've had in a while. McCowan has a deft touch with curries and has made something of a name for himself on that alone -- they were one of the first products that he made for retail. The Guyanese pepper- pot, a national dish of the South American country with cultural links to the Caribbean, intrigued me the most, however. Often reserved for special occa- sions -- especially Christ- mas -- Red House pepper- pot will remain on the menu for a bit longer into this new year. McCowan takes oxtail and boneless beef short rib, flavours it with a tradition- al ingredient called "green seasoning," ginger, and cinnamon and orange to create a sweet and yet spicy character. It's served with basmati rice, split peas, a cucumber pickle for some good acidity and sweet pep- per slaw. But there's more to the stew than that: pepperpot has both an interesting cu- linary history and family history for McCowan. "My dad is Guyanese, and I grew up eating West Indian food," he says. "I also remember it being too spicy for me when I was a kid. Like a lot of the cur- ries Dad made for us, he'd have to make a milder ver- sion for the kids. He likes his food really, really hot." A braised meat dish that could be pork or chicken, one key ingredient in the pepperpot is a cassareep, a bittersweet syrup made from cassava -- a tuber na- tive to South America -- that's essential to the Guya- nese version. "The cassareep, which you can get at local West In- dian stores, gives the pep- perpot its sweet and spicy combination," McCowan says. "The heat comes from wiri wiri peppers. They're straight from Guyana and pack quite a punch." The pepperpot isn't overly spicy, though. The dish calls for broadleaf thyme and McCowan has a source for that too. "A cook who makes our roti gave me a broadleaf thyme plant for Christmas, so we're looking forward to using that authentic ingredient." Pepperpot has a rich mythology, including a co- opted American origin sto- ry that somehow insists it started with George Wash- ington and Valley Forge. The variations in the Caribbean, like just about any food, are many. A part of the myth is that pepper- pot would simmer on the back burner for days (something that does not happen at Red House) and the cook would continue to add ingredients -- a scrap of veg or bit of meat -- from time to time. Historically, then, imag- ine it is as a sort of Caribbe- an "pot-au-feu" -- or to cast aside the colonial orienta- tion: imagine pot-au-feu as the Guyanese pepperpot of France. Regardless, the myth of the long-lived dish is per- petuated by the supposed "preservative" quality of the cassareep -- like myth- ic sourdough starters ru- moured to be hundreds of years old. For McCowan, though, one myth is true: the pep- perpot at Red House recalls his youth and a deeper un- derstanding of his father's heritage. "I've been doing a lot of research on Guyanese food, and West Indian food in general, and putting my own take on it to share it here in the region." That history -- and the simple deliciousness of the pepperpot -- are good rea- sons to order it. Visit redhouseuptown- .ca. Andrew Coppolino is a Kitchener-based food writ- er and broadcaster. Visit him at www.andrewcoppo- lino.com. TRY PEPPERPOT AT LOCAL SPOT Dan McCowan has a deft touch with curries and has made something of a name for himself on that alone - they were one of the first products that he made for retail, writes Andrew Coppolino. Andrew Coppolino photo OPINION ANDREW COPPOLINO Column DISH HAS A RICH MYTHOLOGY, WRITES ANDREW COPPOLINO Scan the QR code to see Andrew Coppolino's list of 13 great dishes during 2020. Stay safe - Lead the way If you are struggling with your mental health or if you know someone who is struggling, there are mental health supports available to you. • COVID-19: HERE4HELP is an online compilation of resources, information, and guidance to help navigate this 'new and temporary' normal. Taking care of our mental health, and discovering our own resilience is even more important now, so that we are able to cope with stress, and care for others who depend on us. Visit here4help. ca today. • Here 24/7 is the coordinated intake, assessment, referral, crisis, waitlist and appointment booking system for mental health and addiction services in Guelph and Wellington County. If you are in crisis, call Here 24/7 at 1-844-437-3247 If you or someone you know is experiencing an emotional crisis and in need of immediate support please call HERE 24/7 at 1.844.437.3247 Nothing is permanent. Not even darkness. But it's the darkness that gives you a reason to love the light. As an older adult coping with COVID-19, isolation protects your physical health but also presents risks to your mental health. There are ways to maintain connection with your family and friends through simple technology which can compensate for the loss of face-to- face contact. As well, there are many services in place now to bring you medication and food so that you can stay safe. Most of all, let your loved ones know how you are feeling and reach out for help if you are feel overwhelmed by loneliness or depression. You are not alone. Supports and services are ready to help you. If you are struggling with your mental health or if you know someone who is struggling, there are mental health supports available to you. • COVID-19: HERE4HELP is an online compilation of resources, information, and guidance to help navigate this 'new and temporary' normal. Taking care of our mental health, and discovering our own resilience is even more important now, so that we are able to cope with stress, and care for others who depend on us. Visit here4help.ca today. • Here 24/7 is the coordinated intake, assessment, referral, crisis, waitlist and appointment booking system for mental health and addiction services in Guelph and Wellington County. If you are in crisis, call Here 24/7 at 1-844-437-3247 While these may not be normal times, DO NOT put off seeing your family doctor if you need help. Make sure you know how your family doctor is currently seeing patients. While you might not need them today, it is important you know how to contact them if and/or when you do.