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\ The Story Of Hats There are few men who can say with trutli that they have never made a joke ahoiit women'* haU, whicli are considered fair game. lUit Dr. G. Willctt-Cunningtoii can take tlie sul)ject seriously. He i» tn expert on women's dress and recently gave an authoritative radio discourse on hats. L'ntil the mid- tixlcenth century, women's hats indicated social position; after that their chief aim was to emphasize personality Tlie "subtle hat lang- uage of women" demanded a vast range of materials, and Dr. Cun- n-nston said tliai in the last couple 01 'iMitiirics, "women have clapped on tlicir he.ids the contents of the botanical gardens, together with nnich ot the zoo â€" flowers, vege- tables, birds, birds' nests complete with eggs, snakes, scorpions, blue- bottles, dragon Hies, cockchafers, sInfTcd kittens^ bits of rabbit, foxes and other beasts of prey." But in all this bewildering^variety of head- gear, there have been two basic types: one echoing the message of the cire>s, tiic other adding a post- script to it. in the middU ol the si.\teentb century, the hair, hitherto almost totally coruealed. escaped from cap- tivity and. ever since, has co- operated with headgear. For at le.ist IW) years, tlie hair, and not tl-.e hat. was what mattered. Pres- ently, ladies hcRait to wear tower- ins L-aps indoors and flat hats out- side Hair, reinforced with all man- ner Ol pads and articficial tresses. I'.Miunted higher and higher until, ii'^u-cicl of a cap, tliey decorated this hirsute mountain witli such ornaments as a postchaise and horses oi glass or a ship in full sail. Ladies wore on their heads huge edifices oi fruit and flowers and a mnnll f: irmvard of animals PATTERN-4653 rj_2o.J0-« "I want a classic that's interest- ing" is your motto I Here it is with deep neckline, ^-button front, slant- away pockets on shin frock, stun- ning in plain or plaids t Pattern 4653 in sizes 12, 14, 16, 18, S; 30, 2,2, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42. Size takes 4!4 yards 39 inch. This pattern, ea.-y to use, simple to sew, is tested for fit. Has com- plete illustrated instructions. Send TWENTY-FIVE CENTS (2Sc) in coins (stamps cannot be accepted^ for this pattern. Print plainly SIZE, N.\MF., ADDRESS. ITYLE NUMIIER. Send order to Box 1, 123 Eigh- tienth St., New Toronto, Ont. This mode of liaivdressing reached iucli a pitch that when ladies' hair was pomaded, powdered and dressed, it wai left for three months and could not be combed. Towards the end of the eigli- teenth century, this top-heavy and insanitary fasiiion declined, and hat* began to oust hair from the first position. They became enorm- ous, and in the evening, ladies, anxious for height, wore tall feath- er* that served as signposts. All througih the Napoleonic wars, hats were in the ascendant. The post- war years were exuberently roman- tic and brought back enormous hats trimmed with anything up to 120 feet of gaily colored ribbon and a profusion of decoration. Coal scuttle bonnets then appeared, and at dinner, ladies of fashion wore velvet berets as large as tea trays, so that a gentleman seated between two of them complained that he caug-ht only an occasional glimpse of his plate. These wayward and high-.'ipirited modes gave place to the Victorian bonnet which gripped the nape of the neck so tightly that side inoviincnts of the head were checked; it also shielded the cheek so that the tno'lest woman had per force to look straight ahead. .•\iter the Crimean War, eiiianci- pation was in the air. Daring young ladies abandoned the bonnet and took to the faster hat which al- lowed tliem a broader view of the world. And then the fruit and vege table vogue began again and the stuffed bird came into its own. Not only wings and tails, but whole birds were planttd on hats, over- burdening the wearers with a wealth of ornithological upholstery. Hats swe;>i onward triumphantly until ill the early nineteen hundreds they became overwhelmingly big. Millinery was aggressive, too, and pinned to the head by large hatpins which stuck out like skewers. The First World War swept all this nonsense away and after it, women emerged with short hair and the famous cloche hat. During the Second World War, they tied t'heii hair in mediaeval kerchiefs. Now hats are "in" again, still a trifle undecided as to what they will be. but, said Dr. Cunniiiglon, "it is no longer the hat or the hair that matters most; it is the s irt of head that women will decide to have, or rather, the use she means to put i| to." Helpful HinU For Busy Women One of the handiest tools in nn kitchen was once a loiig-liaiidled. two-pronged fork. .My luLsband turned it into my jackof-all-work by bending boili prongs up 5'0 de- grees, about an inch from the points. [ use it every day for pullinij hot pans o( fciod â€" roasts, cakes, baked potatoes from tlie oven. (It lias saved mc from any nnmlier ot burns and blisters.) \\\A I've foiiiul the gadget ever so handy for reach- ing hard-toget articles on high shelves and behind furniture; fo: catching t)ic hem of a window shade that has slipped out of reach; and for picking up articles from the floor when stooping is difficult. It's a real etfort-saver. • ♦ * Dust off tlie old-1'asliioiied glass front bookcase and add it to youi closet equipment, for storing your hats, shoes, and best gloves. The dust won't reach them and with the convenient window, you can pick your article at a glance. I've found that mine saves more room fov clothes in our small bedroom closet. • * • No ironing's necessary for my small <Iaughlcr's ribbons. After washing and rinsing them as al- ways. 1 wraif each one around a smooth water glass until it is thor- oughly dry. Then when it's un- wound, prestol all freslily pressed and rcadv to wear. Grievances aren't like sheets â€" they should he slept on before being aired. CROSSWORD PUZZLE AcnoM • loancM â-²oeuatOMtd PUioohl* Hem • . If at* thacp %\f\» of drsi* E»icl»t Fr«n«ti oom IiOfl«r M i.rri by a>> N l>.'>ic.iti<i« villi>«« r?. Witiii ! Ft yln« piiii .". ;. Amlilli^ I ST. AnMqu* ** Pai-nlitn %\t ♦« <arliii>»m» r>ivrk-iiklnn«d neraon A<nim*tlv* Pai'lod of tim* mns*d boa Kloc Arthur'* lane* l>forllii»»»<«r« tM«t* PaabI 10 Troubl« 11 Clotor l< Cold Aiah 17. Mou^a ae»u« 20. Ooodby 31. Incendlakt'iain It. Kind ofalr«» 34. Dacoy 3«. PuK IW IT. LasraMa 2* Wa« Mkauar 31. PlimppHia 14 Poana II Arc till) a«m* lenir'. .<'< lit* radius «< Uaam 44. Notiona 47 Sand out 41 LIttIa iiiaaaaa 50 8lmpl*^'on it Bmploy »'i, l>o) ml :iO»" arnnie.i aKftui,-'- 14 r.iKlitad r>ft Ulsaover • 7 Tallui-lijua (aymb.) «a 41 I L>lamau»4a« trlttliti>» R*ll««aT BIcrt i.iKhi moll 1 lira M. Taak wt. Inoi'iiattia nijbMaii4a| •• f'#ar Oynvi rn'ittiat VI I 'oi'onaf 1>< I nimaraa *« <'liam(M<l v»«»ela M I-" , DOWf< I Annlani I! ' maaaufa For Dutch Christmas â€" iioilander Peter Kien, 4, points to the addres.s of an orpii;iiiay:e in Flolland, for vvliicli this crate of candy ii destined. His 6-vear-old sister M.aija looks carefully at the names on the crate. Teen-agfcrs of the VWC.'A are send- ing "Chocolate for Christinas" overseas for underiioiirished \oitii"sters in 18 countries. TABLE TALKS § datve Andrews. By the time you read this you'll probably be so deep in your holi day tasks â€" and pleasures â€" that you won't want to bother with anything of a complicated nature. So here are a few recipes that are all fairly simple â€" but all good, and v/ell worth clipping and saving if you can't get around to trying them soon. Some call them pancakes, other griddl^ rakes; but no matter what name you prefer, they're mighty fine eating, especially when there's a real nip to the air. So here is J hne basic recipe for: Griddle Cakes 2 cups sifted all-purpose^ flour. 3 teaspoons baking powder 2 tablespoons sugar IVi teaspoons calt 4 tablespoons fat 2 eggs, beaten W-i cups milk, vary with thickness desired Metliod: Sifl flour, baking pou der. sugar and salt together. Cut in the fat as for biscuit or pastry. CoMiliiiie the beaten egg witli milk and mix with the other ingredients lust enoii;;li to moisten Follow manufacturer's instruc- tions for perparing the grulille. Some arc treated and reipiire no lal. When griddle is hoi. drop batter onto it from a tablespoon Spread each rake lightlv i'lio a crrclc ( ook oil one side until pulicct, lull of bubbles and cooked on the edges. Then cook on the othei side. This recipe makes 10 to 12 cakes about four inches in dia- meter. .Slack anil serve with a li- beral supply of butter and ielly 01 syrtip. f The fraiiUlurter - or lioi dog to give it the more familiar name-- has long been a standin witn countless "omen when they have to prepare a ineal in a hurry. Next time you think of serving them, liy them as: Barbecued Frankfurters 1 cup tomato sauce 54 cup molasseg 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce Vt, cup vinegar 1 tablespoon bottled horse- radish 2 tablespoons dry mustard y^ teaspoon salt Vt, teaspoon pepper Vt cup minced onion 1 pound frankfurtera Method: In a large skillet or saucepan combine all ingredients except the frankfurters. Bring to a boil, .^rrange frankfurters iti hot same and simmer 10 minutes. basting and turning occasionally Serve on long buns. Makes four or hve servings. So many |ico(ili seem to be changing from white to brown or V. Iiole wheat bread these days that perhaus it vvoiiUiii't be amiss if I passed along this recipe for: Whole Wheat Rolls y^ cake compressed yeast 1 cup lukewarm water 1 cup scalded milk XVi tablespoons sugar 2'/j teaspoons salt 23^ cups flour 2-V4 cups whole wheat flour 1 tablespoon melted shortening Solteii yeasi in oiie-fourtli cup 01 hikex\arm water. Combine milk and rest of water and add sugar and sail. When milk solution is lukewarm, add yeast mL^cture. Sift white flour once and measure. Mea- sure whole wheat flour and blend the two together. Add half of the ilour mi.vture and beat thoroughly. Add shortening and blend. Add just eiiongli of the remaining flour to make a dough that is stiff ciiongb to knead. Knead thor- cuRhly for 10 niimites. Let rise in warm place (80 de- t-rees) until double in bulk. Punch dougli down and let it rise until it is double in size again; then mold into rolls. Let rise until lighter than for bread l!a'-e about -'(I minutes in a 400- desrees oven. And now. for those of you who have a "sweet tooth," here's how to go about making a really deli- cious: English Tofteo Method Fill in heavy skillet '/^ lb. of butter Heiit until bubbly, but not brown. .Add: \\\ cup sugar 2 tblsp. water - ^ Vi b. whole blanched almonds or other nuts Cook over moderate heat, stir- ring constantly, until the nuts are toasted through and sugar is light brown. Four into buttered 7)^ x 11-incii pan. Cool thoroughly. Turn out on waxed paper. Melt: 3 (1-oz.) squares chocolate or Yt package semi-sweet chocolate pieces Spread a thin coating over toffee with spatula. When hard, turn tof- fee and coat other side. I.et harden. Crack into small pieces -(it'* very rich) with mallet or wooden spoo«i. Makes 2 dozen pieces Answer elsewhere on this page. Busy, Busy, Biuy â€" Never a wasted moment for SuMii GbH, nine-niontli old daughter of Mr. and Mrs. FJavid Katt. Susan iiiq-ples and {;ii//.!es at the same time, presenting a picture of Iperlc I contenttnent. I ANN£ HIRST I "Dear Anne Hirst: My husband has accused me of having an a.'lfair with his brotner â€" his own brother, who has always treated me like a sister. He has hurt us, for we both love him. "Since our marriage over three years ago, my husband has moved us irom ont place to another. Most times we had to live- in one room out on a dairy farm. My children have had no playmates, and have hardly ever been to church or Sunday school. "If I have a woman for a friend, he runs her down, as he does my own family. My father lives ISO miles away. 1 have vi^ted him a few times, and my husband accuses me of having afi'airs with boys I've grown up with there, boys who have aUvavs respected me and mv fam- ily ! "1 could almost torgue him that, but this last charge against his brother and me hurts most. I have never been untrue to him, and never intend to be. "How can things like this last? Is it fair to my little girls, to be brought up in marriage their father has built on distrust? W'hal is wrong? I am tempted to quit and make a new life for the children and me. If my husband is ill in some way, I'd like to help him, for I love him. r>iscouraged Wife." Two Unhappy People * Vour husband is a most un- * happy man. From some sense * of inferiority he cannot believe * that you love only him, that it â- â€¢ would never occur to you to be â- â€¢ disloyal. * He doubts his own ability to * hold yon, and torments himself * constantly with the fear of losing * you. I'erhaps, too, because he has '' not been able to provide a more * secure life for you. * It is likely that a psychiatrist * could aid him. But I suggest that * he first consult his doctor. Cer- * tain physical conditions affect our * self-confidence; once they are * cured, we see ourselves and those * who love us in a very different * light. Talk with the doctor first * yourself and' explain your, hus- * band's strange insinuations: thev * will give him a cue. * It is humiliating and heart * breaking to live with a man who * doubts our integrity. It saps mar- * riage of its deepest meanng and * destroys that mutual faith which * is so essential a foundation. * Show your husband, in all the * little ways to know, how much 'â-  he means to you. I.et him feci you * believe in him with all your heart, * and that you consider yourself * lucky to have married him. Spoil " him in ways that will build up his * self-confidence and make hint * feel that, no matter how he fails * elsewhere, in his home he rules * as the centre of your family lift- * Try this course first, before you • think too seriously about leaving • him. • • • » A husband who doubu hia • wife's loyalty is the most mlser- • able of men. If your marriage is • being spoiled by such suspicions, • tell Anne Hirst about it. Address • her at" Box 1, 123 Eighteenth Street, -N'ew Toronto, Ont. Upside down to prevent peelr'ng. - â€" r^ A J. ei 1 am £ (/ N J.3 1 a 3 ft y n y IJ. 7F i S 7 V n 3 N 1 W, â-  y J. £ a Bil^ 7 a â-  <z 3S 7 â-  â-  i/\j.d. / / i\(/Mo n 7 N ^HT '^/ 3d i a 7 a\y N C\v\d^ H 7 1 d f i/\i v'm X / N n my\j V £\7 N s\ym O 7 y 7 mu n\j. M3 7 SfA^ V nM 1 a 3 NO sy 3 s ^1/1 7 S '^ ° il 00m 3 A 7 i'\ Q 3 Wh i^\o n y P A V </ Big Difference In Fifty Years The Labour Gazette, published by the Dorninion Department ol Labor, recently began its fiftieth year of publication. The records of fair-wage con- tracts for the Government work contained in the first issue, dated September, 1900, furnish an inter- esting contrast with those prevail- ing today. It might be noted that the rates quoted are per day, not per hour: Ordinary laborers received |1.25 to SL.'iO for a day of nine or 10 hours; electricians and carpenters, $1.50 to $2: plumbers, $2.25 to $2.50, and bricklayers, $2.50 to $3. Stonecutters topped the list with a dai'v waee of J-l '0 ISSUE 51 - 1949 Come Out from Under the Shadow of P Al Try DOLCIN TableU for prompt rdief from ARTHRITIC and rheu- matic pain . . .Try DOLCIN . , .* get a bottle of 100 or 500 tablets from your druggist TODAY and join the thousands of relieved sufferers who by taking DOLCIN have come out from under the shadow of Pain . . Most druggists carry DOLCIN. If yours does not, write direct to DOLCIN LIMITED Oatarw i -%» ;*" -*» A" /*^ %• ^ r r r /> j« /*' r» r*' ,^' T -^' A' »•â-  A" ^' r •A* A' -r '\ A' ^' A- r r A'' < -»> -V' â- A r A .A ^^ CRU MB COFFEE CAKE Recipe Measure into bowl, ^ cuft tukewBnn water, 1 teaspoon granulated sugar; rtir until sugar IS dtasolved. Sprinkle with t envelope Fleischma,ui'» Royal Fast Rising Dry Yeast. Let Btand lO minutes, THEN stir well. Scald J^ cup milk and stir in >, cup granulated â- ugar, *3 teasiXMH salt, 3 tablespoons shortening; cool to lukewarm. Beat iu 1 cup onc«-8ift«l bread flour. Add yeaaf. mixture and I beaten egg; beat well. Work in 2'i «ip« om-e-sifted bread tlour. Knead lightly; place in greased IhjwI and brush top with melted butter or shortening. Cover and set in warm platv. tree from draught. Let rise untd doubled in bulk. Punch down dough and divide into 2 equal Dortio«Mi; form into â- mmth balls. Roll each piece into an oblong and fit into Jfeaaed pans about 7" i. 11". Grease tops, cover and let rise until doubled in bulk. Pierce tops with fork and brush with 2 tableaiMions melted butter or •hortenmg. Combine J4 cup b»own sugar (lightly pr««eed down^, >i cup flour, H cup tine dry cake or bread crumba and 1 teaspoon cinnamon; rub in 4 tablespoons butter or short- ening. Sprinkle crumble on top of cakea. Let rise about U hour. Bake in hot oven, 400° about 20 minutes. Si'rve hoi ' wntb but for. DRY YIAST Acn f^i£it:r: Nsw Foit-Acting Dry YMiit NMd* NO Rsfrigaralion! 1^ Stays fresh and full-strength on vour pantry shelffor weeks.'Here'sali voiidu: A la a small antount t usually specified) ot lukewarm water, di»- ^^ solve thoroufchlv I teaspoon sugar for each envelope ol yeast. ^ Sprinkle with dry veut Lm stand 10 minutes. OTHEN ilir wall. (The wstsr used with the yesst «>unt.i a» pan of the total liquid called for in your recipe. 1 r A A, A. T A> -A .A' A A' .â- *• A* A A- /• A r* A r ^ A* A \ r A' r A' f .*> 1