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Montana‘s in the Oakville Town Centre I seats 83 diners and offers takebut. Even after two visits, I have regrets that I could not try more of the side dishes. As it was, I was helped to generous servings of stuffing with gravy, rotini salad, potato salad, Zucchini Marinara, Mediterranean salad and cornâ€" bread. I guess some of my favourites, such as mixed vegâ€" An important part of the concept is the visibility of the food. Two dozen or so freshly prepared side dishes make for an impressive, colourful disâ€" play, and the eager serving staff offer helpful advice and comments to assist the newâ€" comer in making a choice: The first impression one gets upon entering the place is of freshness. The "Montana‘s" concept, with snowâ€"capped mountains in the logo, rustic furniture, country music on the stereo, photos of John Wayne and Roy Rogers on the wall and various western artiâ€" facts forming the decor, is an attempt, it is apparent, to porâ€" tray the theme of freshness. I decided to give the restauâ€" rant a thorough assessment. I was so pleasantly surprised during my first visit that I went back the next day. The unique atmosphere, the counâ€" tryâ€"style goâ€"getâ€"‘em attitude and the freshness and flavour of the food are very positive. Montana‘s, a new restaurant located in the Oakville Town Centre I. As new conâ€" cepts go, this has to rank as one of the best. Montana‘s repâ€" resents a bridge between fastâ€" food places and full service. Iwas recently introduced to Montana‘s It‘s the freshness that makes it As I write this, the memory of those meals truly makes my mouth water. The first day, I‘m glad my mother wasn‘t there, for I admit I broke a cardinal rule of dining by eating up all of the hearty stuffing before touching anything else. Diced carrots and celery added texâ€" ture to the stuffing. Then I regained control and tried the rotini salad. The noodles were perfectly cooked, and the chunks of broccoli and wisps of red pepper added colour and taste. The dressing was a light mayonnaise with Dijon musâ€" tard â€" the combination was sensational. There was one chef‘s assisâ€" tant rotating the spits of chicken up and down in the flame roaster, and he prepared a chicken for me. To drink, I had Dad‘s root beer one day and a beer the next â€" it‘s nice to have that option. (Wine is also available.) The desserts looked appetizing â€" fresh Apple Betty, brownies, butter tarts and cookies â€" but I had to pass. It took me only a minute to get through the line. Steve McQueen I sat down at a corner table both days, with a picture of Steve McQueen for a dining partner. There was a variety of fellow diners around, including students, families and business people. I noted Montana‘s uses real utensils, a civilized touch, and offers free refills and attenâ€" tive service. etables, mashed potatoes, cole slaw, baked beans, macaroni and chicken salad, will have to await my next visit. As for the piece de resisâ€" tance, the chicken was beautiâ€" ful. I spoke to Manager Frank Weise, who told me the chickâ€" en is marinated twice before roasting, and that marinade gives it a slightly sweet appleâ€" spice taste that fits perfectly with the flavour of the bird itself, The meat was lean and perfectly cooked. I could find no fault with any part of the The potato salad, made with red potatoes and a creamy dressing, was agreeable and the sweet goldenâ€"brown hunk of cornbread â€" my first ever â€" was a true pleasure. The delicious chicken meals are ‘prepared before your eyes ahd thé price is very reasonable Montana‘s chicken is marinated with a special blend of herbs and spices and then slowly flame r0oasted. an a Manager Weise told me that Montana‘s is the creation of the Kelsey‘s restaurant chain. Kelsey‘s CEO, Paul Jeffery had spent months touring the U.S. Jeffery wished to stake a claim in this new class of restaurant by offering only fresh food, disâ€" played right in front of the cusâ€" tomer, with a focus on lean, nutritious chicken cooked on The Mediterranean salad, with cucumbers, red and green peppers, tomato, pea pods and onions in a red wine vinaiâ€" grette, was wonderfully refreshing. My second visit you could call vegetable day. The test was to see whether Montana‘s knew how to properly cook and preâ€" sent fresh vegetables. The answer, in a word, is yes. The healthy chunks of zucchini in the Zucchini Marinara were just crunchy enough, and served with onions in a tomato sauce seasoned with peppers and basil, among other spices, it was a real treat. meal. Oakville Town Centre I, southwest corner of Dorval Drive and North Service Road. Call 842â€"3200. For all this freshness, Montana‘s is extremely affordâ€" able. An average meal at Montana‘s â€"â€" say, a quarter chicken with side dish and complimentary cornbreadâ€"â€" costs only $5.15. Takeout is available â€" Weise told me that it accounts for about 30 per cent of Montana‘s business. The Oakville site is one of 33 new Montana‘s scheduled to open over the next three years. rotisseries. Weise explained that the food preparation process takes careful planning because all food is prepared fresh each morning and afterâ€" noon. The chicken must be served within 45 minutes of when it is finished cooking. Food is never kept overnight for service the next day. No friers This theme of freshness carâ€" ries over into the choice of dishes. There are no french fries or any deepâ€"fried foods (in fact there are no friers on the premises), and even the vegetaâ€" bles are cooked fresh. North Service Rd.